i need to change my 02 acura rsx oxygen sensor but looking in the engine and cant find it? dont want to take it to a mechanic because they expensive and i know it is a simple task, but need to located first...can anyone direct me where to find it? thankx
Acura rsx oxygen sensor where?
There are multiple sensors. %26quot;Bank 1 Sensor 1%26quot; is located in the front of the car, screwed into the exhaust manifold. The two sensors for bank 2 are located, as previously mentioned, along the catalytic converter. Go to any auto parts store and check your code and send it to me to verify, as many technicians will recommend an oxygen sensor when the sensor is actually throwing a code for something else. If it is an oxygen sensor, make sure you get an %26quot;oxygen sensor socket%26quot; from an auto parts store.
Acura rsx oxygen sensor where?
If it's the secondary sensor it will be located on the cat. Look at the exhaust. Be careful taking it off, they can be very stubborn.
Thursday, October 6, 2011
O2(oxygen sensor) code comes back after replacing sensor?
My check engine light was on and was an o2 sensor before the catalyst code. I changed the o2 sensor and it came back on after about 3 drives. I replaced the o2 sensor again thinking it may have been a bad one and again the check engine light come back on indicating the same problem. What else could this be?
O2(oxygen sensor) code comes back after replacing sensor?
are you sure you got the right one, my Explorer has 4 of them :(
O2(oxygen sensor) code comes back after replacing sensor?
i own a repair shop,,and after you replace the sensor you have to erase the trouble code from it,,or it will come back every time,,and if it has more than one sensor it may need more than one replaced on it,most cars now have to,,an updraft,and a down draft on them,,good luck,but remember ,it has to be erased from it,,good luck with it i hope this help,s.
i think some cars have more than 1 oxygen sensor. maybe there is another one that is bad?
On this stuff you can not just replace parts. You need to make sure the other sensors and controls are working right. Without knowing the type of car you drive hard to help you.Is the wiring from the sensor to the computer good . It could be the injector dripping and the computer can not lean out the mixture enough. This cause a false O2 sensor code. Could be lots of other stuff to. Fuel pressure to high or low , map or maf sensor out of cal. Tough to give you an answer with so little info
Is it on a chevy truck? One thing you want to watch out for, is if you have an exhaust leak, ahead of the o2 sensor. That will cause the light to come on again. depending on what kind of vehicle it is. could be the coolant temperature sensor.
there are actually a few differnt things that can cause a o2 code. It could be as simple as an air filter, also check the wiring harness to the o2 sensor. could be corroded and or broken. May also be another o2 sensor... some vehicles have 2 or 4... left and right bank before and after, make sure you changed the right one. You could also have a bad cat. converter. Also if you don't have the equipment to reset the codes drive cycles will restet codes if the proper repairs were made. With new inspection procedures her in NY and in many other states it is not recomended to reset codes as drive cycles can be more than 100 miles in some cases...
Sounds like you something else may be triggering the light. Vaccuum leaks cause a lean O2 code. So do bad fuel pumps and dirty MAF sensors. Whereas a bad fuel pressure regulator can cause a rich O2 code, but worn spark plugs or a missfire due to bad wires can as well. Parts stores read trouble codes for free because they want to sell you parts, but you need some good ole fashion diagnosis on this one.
Agree with Vonnie C. It's situations like this that expose why you get what you pay for with a %26quot;free%26quot; code reading at the parts store. More often than not an O2 sensor code does not mean the sensor has to be replaced. There is a long list of tests that have to be run to determine what caused the code to be triggered. Depending on the make/model/year of vehicle there coudl be dozens of different tests and checks required to determine the cause. Your issue requires a real mechanic with real diagnostic tools and expertise. That's why they make the big bucks.
O2(oxygen sensor) code comes back after replacing sensor?
are you sure you got the right one, my Explorer has 4 of them :(
O2(oxygen sensor) code comes back after replacing sensor?
i own a repair shop,,and after you replace the sensor you have to erase the trouble code from it,,or it will come back every time,,and if it has more than one sensor it may need more than one replaced on it,most cars now have to,,an updraft,and a down draft on them,,good luck,but remember ,it has to be erased from it,,good luck with it i hope this help,s.
i think some cars have more than 1 oxygen sensor. maybe there is another one that is bad?
On this stuff you can not just replace parts. You need to make sure the other sensors and controls are working right. Without knowing the type of car you drive hard to help you.Is the wiring from the sensor to the computer good . It could be the injector dripping and the computer can not lean out the mixture enough. This cause a false O2 sensor code. Could be lots of other stuff to. Fuel pressure to high or low , map or maf sensor out of cal. Tough to give you an answer with so little info
Is it on a chevy truck? One thing you want to watch out for, is if you have an exhaust leak, ahead of the o2 sensor. That will cause the light to come on again. depending on what kind of vehicle it is. could be the coolant temperature sensor.
there are actually a few differnt things that can cause a o2 code. It could be as simple as an air filter, also check the wiring harness to the o2 sensor. could be corroded and or broken. May also be another o2 sensor... some vehicles have 2 or 4... left and right bank before and after, make sure you changed the right one. You could also have a bad cat. converter. Also if you don't have the equipment to reset the codes drive cycles will restet codes if the proper repairs were made. With new inspection procedures her in NY and in many other states it is not recomended to reset codes as drive cycles can be more than 100 miles in some cases...
Sounds like you something else may be triggering the light. Vaccuum leaks cause a lean O2 code. So do bad fuel pumps and dirty MAF sensors. Whereas a bad fuel pressure regulator can cause a rich O2 code, but worn spark plugs or a missfire due to bad wires can as well. Parts stores read trouble codes for free because they want to sell you parts, but you need some good ole fashion diagnosis on this one.
Agree with Vonnie C. It's situations like this that expose why you get what you pay for with a %26quot;free%26quot; code reading at the parts store. More often than not an O2 sensor code does not mean the sensor has to be replaced. There is a long list of tests that have to be run to determine what caused the code to be triggered. Depending on the make/model/year of vehicle there coudl be dozens of different tests and checks required to determine the cause. Your issue requires a real mechanic with real diagnostic tools and expertise. That's why they make the big bucks.
2000 Toyota Corolla - Catalytic Converter? Oxygen Sensor? Help!?
I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla with 125K miles on it. Within the last month, the Check Engine light has appeared. I had it diagnosed at a shop and the computer said the Oxygen Sensor and Catalytic Converter needed to be replaced and it would cost about $500. I have since taken it to a different shop, paid $260 to have the Oxygen Sensor replaced, but the light returned again after four days. When I called back, he said it probably wasn't the right %26quot;code%26quot; because Toyotas built within the last ten years don't normally have to have the Catalytic Converter replaced. Despite the fact that I work in IT, I can't comprehend that by changing a car part that is either dirty or damaged, the Check Engine light should not come back on after only four days if the car part is brand new. Now, I assume I'll have no choice but to take it to a shop, pay another $200 to replace the converter and then pray that the light does not return. Any thoughts or recomedations?
2000 Toyota Corolla - Catalytic Converter? Oxygen Sensor? Help!?
get someone else to take a scan tool to it, someone who knows how to read them. the other guy probably didnt take the time to find out what to code meant and just went by what the scan tool said, those do not tell you where exactly the problem is but is a reference tool that tells you which area should be carefully looked at. I dont even think they can tell you if your catalytic converter is bad - that does not have a sensor that the computer reads, plus there are 2 O2 sensor maybe more, he coulda changed the wrong one, some are scammers you should know that!
2000 Toyota Corolla - Catalytic Converter? Oxygen Sensor? Help!?
That guy is ripping you off and incompetent to boot. There's no such thing as a cat that's never supposed to be replaced, especially at that age, and $260 for an O2 sensor is insane. A bad cat can be the cause of your O2 sensor code.
Andy W- Where do you come up these things, and how did you get so many best answers? Have you ever bought an oxygen sensor before? An O.E. Denso cost $264.99 from AutoZone. $122.00 from Napa. How can you say the mechanic did the right thing? He should have diagnosed the catalyst efficiency with a pyrometer and verified with a gas analyzer.
Or do they still just bang on it with a hammer where you come from.
DbMay75- I sent you an e-mail if you need some real help.
if i were you, i would never go back to the mechanic that charged you $260 for an o2 sensor replacement. They are a $50 part, and they take less then 5 minutes to change. If you have a wrench (sometimes you need a propane torch) you can change the 02 sensors.
But anyways, heres the deal, when the code for the 02 sensors shows up, it just gives you a general idea of the problem. You have an 02 sensor after the cat, and im positive that is what was replaced. The faulty 02 sensor can be caused by a faulty cat, and thats exactly the problem youre having.
The mechanic did the correct thing. He replaced the cheapest part first. He cleared the codes, and everything was fine, now you find that a faulty cat is causing the same code... This mechanic was honest in the fact that he only tried screwing you on the labor, and not the original problem.
Cat convertors fail all the time...it doesnt matter how old the car is, it will happen.
$200 for a cat is a bit high, but if that includes labor, thats about normal. cats are expensive. Im sure your toyota dealer would be charging $300+ for the part alone.
But like i said, i wouldnt be using that mechanic again. $260 for an 02 sensor is nuts.
2000 Toyota Corolla - Catalytic Converter? Oxygen Sensor? Help!?
get someone else to take a scan tool to it, someone who knows how to read them. the other guy probably didnt take the time to find out what to code meant and just went by what the scan tool said, those do not tell you where exactly the problem is but is a reference tool that tells you which area should be carefully looked at. I dont even think they can tell you if your catalytic converter is bad - that does not have a sensor that the computer reads, plus there are 2 O2 sensor maybe more, he coulda changed the wrong one, some are scammers you should know that!
2000 Toyota Corolla - Catalytic Converter? Oxygen Sensor? Help!?
That guy is ripping you off and incompetent to boot. There's no such thing as a cat that's never supposed to be replaced, especially at that age, and $260 for an O2 sensor is insane. A bad cat can be the cause of your O2 sensor code.
Andy W- Where do you come up these things, and how did you get so many best answers? Have you ever bought an oxygen sensor before? An O.E. Denso cost $264.99 from AutoZone. $122.00 from Napa. How can you say the mechanic did the right thing? He should have diagnosed the catalyst efficiency with a pyrometer and verified with a gas analyzer.
Or do they still just bang on it with a hammer where you come from.
DbMay75- I sent you an e-mail if you need some real help.
if i were you, i would never go back to the mechanic that charged you $260 for an o2 sensor replacement. They are a $50 part, and they take less then 5 minutes to change. If you have a wrench (sometimes you need a propane torch) you can change the 02 sensors.
But anyways, heres the deal, when the code for the 02 sensors shows up, it just gives you a general idea of the problem. You have an 02 sensor after the cat, and im positive that is what was replaced. The faulty 02 sensor can be caused by a faulty cat, and thats exactly the problem youre having.
The mechanic did the correct thing. He replaced the cheapest part first. He cleared the codes, and everything was fine, now you find that a faulty cat is causing the same code... This mechanic was honest in the fact that he only tried screwing you on the labor, and not the original problem.
Cat convertors fail all the time...it doesnt matter how old the car is, it will happen.
$200 for a cat is a bit high, but if that includes labor, thats about normal. cats are expensive. Im sure your toyota dealer would be charging $300+ for the part alone.
But like i said, i wouldnt be using that mechanic again. $260 for an 02 sensor is nuts.
I recently replaced the plug wires on my 93 probe GT. I also replaced the coil and rotor. All needed changing.?
I had to move the air induction system to get to the distributor and once i put it back together, now the fuel injection is screwed. it floods itself out and when it does run, it jerks and backfires violently. could this be oxygen sensor? I smell the gas from being flooded. Any ideas?
I recently replaced the plug wires on my 93 probe GT. I also replaced the coil and rotor. All needed changing.?
sounds like you got a plug wire crossed check your firing order then trace your plug wires and make sure the firing order is correct
I recently replaced the plug wires on my 93 probe GT. I also replaced the coil and rotor. All needed changing.?
Check your firing order again.
take it to a pro/its something you did and without looking at it its just hit or miss with your wallet
I recently replaced the plug wires on my 93 probe GT. I also replaced the coil and rotor. All needed changing.?
sounds like you got a plug wire crossed check your firing order then trace your plug wires and make sure the firing order is correct
I recently replaced the plug wires on my 93 probe GT. I also replaced the coil and rotor. All needed changing.?
Check your firing order again.
take it to a pro/its something you did and without looking at it its just hit or miss with your wallet
So what happens if the oxygen sensor doesnt get changed?
The car will start to use more and more gas.
The computer needs to read what the oxygen sensor sees so that it knows how much fuel to add to the air going into the engine. If it can't tell, it will add more......just to %26quot;make sure%26quot;.
So what happens if the oxygen sensor doesnt get changed?
engine light will turn on thats about it mines been out for a yaer
So what happens if the oxygen sensor doesnt get changed?
Your car runs like crap. The oxygen sensors are the whole basis of what controls your air/fuel ratio, which is what keeps the car running properly. If there were no oxygen sensors there wouldn't be modern fuel injection, we'd still be using carburators. It's the #1 single most important sensor. As they wear, they begin to switch from lean/rich slowly, and your car will do the same, and it's performance will become very sluggish. Eventually it'll get so bad that it stalls, fails emissions, cats get clogged, and overall the car just runs like junk.
Ok your car will run rich which will use more gas. The catlytic converter might get clogged because of too many carbon gases. It will have poor performance, fuel might come out the exhaust pipe or clogg your cat. converter. It will also stall because of the wrong air fuel ratio. But if that fails you still have mass airflow sensor which will be controlling the amount of fuel going in, but then your cat might get clogged because of gases and fuel. The O2 sensor generates a voltage and the computer reads it and adjusts the air fuel ratio using input from O2 sensor and mass air flow sensor if O2 sensor fails yo will have bad emissions.
Check engine light would turn on. Rest is depends on which O2 sensor. Typical OBD 2 cars have two O2 sensors. One in the front of the catalytic converter measures the engine combustion quality. The other one, after the catalytic converter would measure the air after the cat filtering- purpose of it is to detect the catalytic converter problem. O2 after cat can be ignored until the check engine light goes on (and replace it when it does) However, the one before the cat, when not changed in time, can damage the CAT. And if this O2 sensor give you the check engine light, it does NOT necessarily means the O2 sensor is bad. It means that engine combustion quality is bad, and O2 sensor is detecting the unburned fuel going out of exhaust.
Generally, you would want to change O2 sensors in every 60K for older cars, and 100K for new.
your check engine light will stay on, thats about it
--good luckmultiple tables ireland
The computer needs to read what the oxygen sensor sees so that it knows how much fuel to add to the air going into the engine. If it can't tell, it will add more......just to %26quot;make sure%26quot;.
So what happens if the oxygen sensor doesnt get changed?
engine light will turn on thats about it mines been out for a yaer
So what happens if the oxygen sensor doesnt get changed?
Your car runs like crap. The oxygen sensors are the whole basis of what controls your air/fuel ratio, which is what keeps the car running properly. If there were no oxygen sensors there wouldn't be modern fuel injection, we'd still be using carburators. It's the #1 single most important sensor. As they wear, they begin to switch from lean/rich slowly, and your car will do the same, and it's performance will become very sluggish. Eventually it'll get so bad that it stalls, fails emissions, cats get clogged, and overall the car just runs like junk.
Ok your car will run rich which will use more gas. The catlytic converter might get clogged because of too many carbon gases. It will have poor performance, fuel might come out the exhaust pipe or clogg your cat. converter. It will also stall because of the wrong air fuel ratio. But if that fails you still have mass airflow sensor which will be controlling the amount of fuel going in, but then your cat might get clogged because of gases and fuel. The O2 sensor generates a voltage and the computer reads it and adjusts the air fuel ratio using input from O2 sensor and mass air flow sensor if O2 sensor fails yo will have bad emissions.
Check engine light would turn on. Rest is depends on which O2 sensor. Typical OBD 2 cars have two O2 sensors. One in the front of the catalytic converter measures the engine combustion quality. The other one, after the catalytic converter would measure the air after the cat filtering- purpose of it is to detect the catalytic converter problem. O2 after cat can be ignored until the check engine light goes on (and replace it when it does) However, the one before the cat, when not changed in time, can damage the CAT. And if this O2 sensor give you the check engine light, it does NOT necessarily means the O2 sensor is bad. It means that engine combustion quality is bad, and O2 sensor is detecting the unburned fuel going out of exhaust.
Generally, you would want to change O2 sensors in every 60K for older cars, and 100K for new.
your check engine light will stay on, thats about it
--good luck
O2 sensor light is on. I multimetered the wire from engine side.Found what I think is the problem. Need advice
I had posted before about changing my O2 sensor on a 97 Subaru Legacy wagon with an OEM sensor and the check engine light came back. I received great responses (Thanks : ) One of them was to multi meter the wire coming from the engine side of the bank one sensor two oxygen sensor which sits right on the catalytic converter. I multi metered the wire using a positive and the negative with the ignition on engine off. There where three wires, two positive and one negative. I got a 10 ohm reading from one positive and no pulse from the other. Could this be the problem?
O2 sensor light is on. I multimetered the wire from engine side.Found what I think is the problem. Need advice
It sounds like the cats.
O2 sensor light is on. I multimetered the wire from engine side.Found what I think is the problem. Need advice
You have few (possible) problem. You'll only get a reading when (a) the engine is running (b) O2 sensor is warmed up.
The only last problem is that digital multimeter (DMM) are often TOO SLOW to respond for you read the value. Some non-auto-ranging meters are little bit faster but by not much.
Some DMM have %26quot;bar graph%26quot; on top that can move as fast the pulse (even if the digital readout is still hunting). There are few LED bar-graph O2 (or exhaust gas oxygen - EGO) meter you can hook up. They are little more than 0-1 volt meter. But they react very quickly.
===
Another thing is that you want to be reading the VOLTage not the resistance (ohm). When the engine is running at stoichiometry (14.7 : 1 - perfect air to fuel ratio) the voltage should be near 0.45. But in practice it should bounce little bit above and below that (about 3 to 10 times per second). But that's only during idle or cruise. At wide open throttle (WOT) the engine ignores the O2 sensor and just dumps fuel (at something like 12:1 A/F ration).
O2 sensor light is on. I multimetered the wire from engine side.Found what I think is the problem. Need advice
It sounds like the cats.
O2 sensor light is on. I multimetered the wire from engine side.Found what I think is the problem. Need advice
You have few (possible) problem. You'll only get a reading when (a) the engine is running (b) O2 sensor is warmed up.
The only last problem is that digital multimeter (DMM) are often TOO SLOW to respond for you read the value. Some non-auto-ranging meters are little bit faster but by not much.
Some DMM have %26quot;bar graph%26quot; on top that can move as fast the pulse (even if the digital readout is still hunting). There are few LED bar-graph O2 (or exhaust gas oxygen - EGO) meter you can hook up. They are little more than 0-1 volt meter. But they react very quickly.
===
Another thing is that you want to be reading the VOLTage not the resistance (ohm). When the engine is running at stoichiometry (14.7 : 1 - perfect air to fuel ratio) the voltage should be near 0.45. But in practice it should bounce little bit above and below that (about 3 to 10 times per second). But that's only during idle or cruise. At wide open throttle (WOT) the engine ignores the O2 sensor and just dumps fuel (at something like 12:1 A/F ration).
Have a problem with a ford f-150?
Have a ford f-150 and when i stop it shuts down. Took it to the shop and had it checked in the computer and told me, the truck doesnt have enough spark so the spark plugs, spark cables were changed. What can it be? Thinking of changing the oxygen sensor
Have a problem with a ford f-150?
Hey thanks everyone for dissing this guy's truck, way to be helpful. But anyway you said that it doesnt have enough spark and the plugs and wires were changed, but how are the distributor cap, rotor, and even the coil doing? Those would be my next guess, also check for condensation inside your distributor cap, that can be solved by spraying starting fluid inside that cap and let it sit for about 10 minutes or so.
Have a problem with a ford f-150?
the problem is very simple... the 150 should be a 250.
problem solved.
the biggest problem of all is that you bought a ford, doesn't surprise me you have all sorts of problems with it
O 2 sensor most likely have you checked the alternator for a short?
You didn't say what year it is but there must be a way to idle it uo a little higher. Leave it in %26quot;P%26quot; and get it up to around 800 RPM.
it is probably your alternator or your battery
or maybe a low idle
Don't just start replacing items. If the O2 sensor is bad, it will limit the amount of fuel, not the spark. If there truly isn't enough spark, the problem will lie with what causes the spark, i.e. the ignition coil, or coil packs. (I am not familiar with what is on your vehicle). I would check the throttle position sensor, since when you stop, you should be at idle, and if your TPS isn't adjusted properly, it will halp cause a stall. Take it to the dealer rather than a %26quot;shop%26quot;, and they might also have a better idea than a general mechanic. Good luck.
Its your IAC (Idle air control) valve, It should be located near your throttle body.. Check it to see if its dirty. If it is, replace the whole thing (60 bucks). When these go bad, cars will die at idle.
Have a problem with a ford f-150?
Hey thanks everyone for dissing this guy's truck, way to be helpful. But anyway you said that it doesnt have enough spark and the plugs and wires were changed, but how are the distributor cap, rotor, and even the coil doing? Those would be my next guess, also check for condensation inside your distributor cap, that can be solved by spraying starting fluid inside that cap and let it sit for about 10 minutes or so.
Have a problem with a ford f-150?
the problem is very simple... the 150 should be a 250.
problem solved.
the biggest problem of all is that you bought a ford, doesn't surprise me you have all sorts of problems with it
O 2 sensor most likely have you checked the alternator for a short?
You didn't say what year it is but there must be a way to idle it uo a little higher. Leave it in %26quot;P%26quot; and get it up to around 800 RPM.
it is probably your alternator or your battery
or maybe a low idle
Don't just start replacing items. If the O2 sensor is bad, it will limit the amount of fuel, not the spark. If there truly isn't enough spark, the problem will lie with what causes the spark, i.e. the ignition coil, or coil packs. (I am not familiar with what is on your vehicle). I would check the throttle position sensor, since when you stop, you should be at idle, and if your TPS isn't adjusted properly, it will halp cause a stall. Take it to the dealer rather than a %26quot;shop%26quot;, and they might also have a better idea than a general mechanic. Good luck.
Its your IAC (Idle air control) valve, It should be located near your throttle body.. Check it to see if its dirty. If it is, replace the whole thing (60 bucks). When these go bad, cars will die at idle.
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