I am an Electronics Technician (TV Repair) so I know how to use a Meter. I know the Ohms (around 6) for the Heater,I know what to check for the Voltage, but, Is the Voltage taken with the car running, or hot and not running ?
Any advice or tips to figure out which one?
Took it to Auto Zone and they said it was an Oxygen sensor problem.
I have the special socket.
Finding the right Oxygen Sensor to change. 1997 Ford Taurus 3.0 engine?
First mistake is AUTOZONE!!!!! They can read codes all day long and sell sensors all day long and fix nothing. First off what O2 codes did you get? most likely P0171 P0174 P0172 P0173 ect. This does not not meen you have a bad sensor, it is a rich or lean code or possibly lack of switching. Of course a bad sensor can cause these codes, but generally they are caused by various other concerns such as vacuum leaks, leaking injectors, leaking fuel pressure regulators, contaminated MAF sensor ect... The only way to be certain of the cause is to monitor your BARO, STFTMS, LTFTMS, O211, O221, MAF ect... these PIDS help determine if you actually have a lean, or rich condition or maybe MAF concern. Then follow a diagnostic routine using real info, then make a proper repair. Before replcing a bunch of parts on a guess to do with a code from AUTOZONE I would have a reputable repair facility help you it will cost you less in the long run. Hope this helps
Finding the right Oxygen Sensor to change. 1997 Ford Taurus 3.0 engine?
Taurus' from '96 - '07 had two 3.0 v6's; yours is either a Vulcan (155hp OHV) or Duratec (200hp DOHC). I believe both had two oxygen sensors, one upstream of the catalytic converter, and one downstream of the catalytic converter, to monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converter. When it comes to diagnosing an O2 sensor like you're talking about, you really shouldn't have to do that. The On Board Diagnostics computer is a self-diagnosing system, and will illuminate a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL/ check engine light) when it detects a fault; it does the diagnostic work, so you don't have to. Still, OBD computers don't monitor everything, like vacuum lines, or fluid leaks, and can be tricked by other problems, so it's highly unlikely you'll need to really diagnose an O2 sensor like you're describing. Since the car is now 11 years old, it's highly probable you need to replace the upstream sensor, as that is exposed to hotter temperatures and dirtier exhaust. Don't sweat it; this ain't a Toyota! A plug-in Bosch O2 sensor for your car should be about $45 dollars. A plug-in Bosch O2 sensor for a Toyota is $175. Also, you shouldn't need the specialty tool (I've never needed it), a 7/8 open end wrench should work just fine.
ok autozone sucks ***, if they are so good at diagnosing then they should have told you what sensor was bad did you have bank 1 lean/rich or bank 2 lean/rich, sensor not switching? cat efficiency codes? do you have any vac. leaks, rotten egg smell, raw fuel smell, did you put E85 in your car? any of these things even mentioned?
Just turn on the key and don't start it, now you can make your check.
